Archwood Properties

May 8, 2009

Timeline & Tips for Moving

Filed under: Uncategorized — admin @ 3:03 pm

Moving is a complicated process. Keeping up with belongings, family members, movers and a number of other tasks can be a daunting proposition. That means the more organized you are, the less stressful the move will be.

While the general timeline is flexible, here are some steps you should take to help your move happen effectively and efficiently.

Two months before moving:

  • Call several movers for estimates. Keep in mind that on-site estimates are usually more accurate. Once you choose a mover, discuss costs, packing, timing and insurance.
  • It’s also a good idea to contact a tax professional about information on tax deductions regarding moving and what receipts you’ll need to keep.
  • Prepare an inventory of everything you own. Divide the list into three categories: things to be moved, things to be handled by you and things that will be left behind. You should handle anything that qualifies as a one-of-a-kind item, such as personal papers, jewelry, and photos.
  • Ask the schools your children attend to forward the children’s records to their new schools.

Six weeks before moving: 

  • Start familiarizing yourself with your new community. Contact the local chamber of commerce for information on schools, leisure activities and community events.
  • Begin collecting the materials you will need for the move such as boxes, containers and other packing materials.
  • Register your children in their new school.

One month before you move:

  • Contact your moving company to schedule the move date.
  • Complete a change-of-address form with your local post office
  • Let your insurance companies know about your move so you can transfer all insurance on your home and belongings.

Two weeks before moving:

  • Contact the utility companies in your new community to get them connected.
  •  Make your final packing decisions, and start packing those things you don’t use often.
  • Now is the time to clean and clear your home, including closets, the basement and the attic.

One week before moving:

  • Tie up any loose ends. If you’ve made a checklist of tasks, now is the time to look back through it to make sure nothing’s been overlooked or unaccounted for.
  • Make sure your mover has a phone number and address where you can be reached if you’re not going directly to your new home.

Moving-Out Day:

  • Make sure you’re present when the movers arrive. Confirm the delivery date and time at your new address. Communicate as much as you need with the movers. Remember it is your obligation to remain on site until everything is loaded.
  • Always do a final walkthrough of the premises, and refrain from signing any documents until you have completed your final inspection to make sure nothing is left behind.

Moving-In Day:

  • Make sure you’re present when the movers arrive. You should get 24 hours notice prior to their arrival, which will give you time to arrange for unloading.
  • Have your payment on hand for charges, and keep in mind that many movers will not accept a personal check.
  • Make sure the utilities have been connected.

May 7, 2009

Stimulus Package: Homeowner Perks

Filed under: Green Living, Uncategorized — admin @ 10:41 am

Thanks to several programs in the stimulus package, you could receive thousands of dollars by investing in a number of energy-conserving home improvements.

The Feds want to pay you to save energy.

There’s never been a better time to invest in energy-conserving upgrades to your house–that’s the word from the White House. And Congress is backing up the message with billions of dollars being made available to homeowners who want to bring down their energy bills.

It’s a multipronged initiative packed into different programs included in the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, also known as the stimulus package, which was passed in February.

Between the expanded tax credits and a $5 billion dollar injection into the Department of Energy’s Weatherization Assistance Program, homeowners stand to receive thousands of dollars if they invest in any one of a number of home-improvement projects.

But doing your homework is crucial to getting the most savings out of the investment. Here’s a rundown of how you can save, as well as a few words to the wise from home-energy experts.

Weatherization Assistance Program

State and local governments are handling billions more dollars going into the federal Weatherization Assistance Program. The program allows as much as $6,500 to be spent sealing up a house for income-eligible homeowners. The income thresholds were raised under the new legislation to 200% above the federal poverty line. That corresponds to an income of $44,100 for a family four or $29,140 for a family of two.

Upgrades from this program often start with sealing up a leaky house: weatherstripping, insulation, new windows. These are big energy savers that often pay for themselves.

For questions about your eligibility for the Weather Assistance Program, call the program hotline at 800-363-3732.

Tax Credits

If you don’t qualify for government-issue weatherization, Washington is subsidizing energy saving through tax credits–as much as $1,500 per house, and even more in some cases. The bigger the project, the better the incentive

The federal Energy Star Web site offers a valuable handhold for understanding the sometimes complicated details of the tax-credit program. Energy Star, a collaboration between the Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency, evaluates the efficiency of a variety of home products, including dishwashers and insulation.

The ones that pass muster receive an Energy Star rating. For more information, look for the chart on the Energy Star website that lists which home improvements are covered under the tax credit, and be sure to see the links to qualifying products. In the meantime, here’s our summary of the main categories for savings.

Insulation

This is the place to start! Along with sealing up leaks, insulation should be the first upgrade a homeowner considers. Sometimes people buy highly rated energy-efficient windows and they complain about drafts. But it’s not the window; it’s the insulation, especially if you live in an old house since insulation deteriorates over time.

Insulation requirements vary by region but must meet 2009 standards set by the International Energy Conservation Code. The insulation must have a five-year life span or two-year warranty. Insulated siding does not qualify. Labor is not included, and the tax credit is capped at $1,500.

Roofing

This one is easy. Any metal or asphalt roofing product with an Energy Star rating qualifies for the tax credit. The roofing material must be expected to last five years or have a two-year warranty. The IRS will give you back 30% of what you spend on this in 2009 or 2010. The giveback is capped at $1,500 and does not include the cost of labor.

Windows and Doors

The tax credit will pay 30% of costs, minus labor, for qualified window upgrades in 2009 and 2010. The credit is capped at $1,500. But you must install the best. Only the most efficient windows, doors, and skylights on the market will qualify. Windows and doors must have a so-called U-Factor below .30 and a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) less than .30 to meet the requirements for a tax credit. The U-factor measures the rate at which heat leaks from a window–the lower, the better. The SHGC measures how well the window blocks heat caused by sunlight.

The standard product lines of most manufacturers, even many with an Energy Star rating, don’t meet this stringent standard. But there are qualified products out there. Andersen Windows is highlighting a few dozen on its Web site.

For even more choices, the NFRC has compiled an extensive list of qualifying windows, which you can download here. You should also check the U-factor and SHGC on the NFRC label on Energy Star–qualified windows and doors you’re considering buying.

HVAC

When it comes to biomass stoves, nonsolar water heaters, and eligible heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning units, the government will allow homeowners to include the cost of installation as well as the price of the products to reach the $1,500 tax credit in 2009 or 2010.

Some manufacturers of certain types of gas water heaters don’t have an eligible product on the market yet but will soon, due to Congress’ new law to drive the market toward greater energy efficiency. The purpose is to give people an incentive when they are going to buy something to buy the most efficient version of it.

High-Tech Green

Advanced technology in renewable energy takes home improvement to another level. These systems often don’t pay for themselves quickly. To create incentives for interested homeowners, the federal government is sweetening the deal. The tax credit will cover 30 percent of the cost, including installation, with no upper limit. In most cases, the window for the tax credit has been extended to 2016. Eligible systems include solar water heaters, solar panels, geothermal heat pumps, and wind energy systems.

STOP!  Before you do anything, get an Energy Audit

Before getting your head in the clouds and contemplating the virtues of a wind turbine, experts caution homeowners to consider an expense the tax credit will not cover: an energy audit.

These audits, which are sometimes offered free by a local utility, provide a detailed report of the energy efficiency of a house. The auditor locates leaks, checks ductwork and insulation, measures emissions such as carbon monoxide, and checks the efficiency of the lighting system. Some states credential contractors to provide audits, which can cost between $200 and $500. That fee is sometimes reduced if the contractor is employed to implement the upgrades.

May 6, 2009

Save Energy with Sealing & Insulation

Filed under: Green Living — admin @ 1:42 pm

Sealing and insulating the “envelope” or “shell” of your home — its outer walls, ceiling, windows, doors, and floors — is often the most cost effective way to improve energy efficiency and comfort. ENERGY STAR estimates that a knowledgeable homeowner or skilled contractor can save up to 20% on heating and cooling costs (or up to 10% on their total annual energy bill) by sealing and insulating.

To Seal and Insulate with ENERGY STAR:

  • Seal air leaks throughout the home to stop drafts,
  • Add insulation to block heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer,
  • Choose ENERGY STAR qualified windows when replacing windows.

If your attic is accessible and you like home improvement projects, you can Do-It-Yourself with help from our DIY Guide to Sealing and Insulating with ENERGY STAR. The Guide offers step-by-step instructions for sealing common air leaks and adding insulation to the attic.

You can also hire a contractor who will use special diagnostic tools to pinpoint and seal the hidden air leaks in your home. A Home Energy Rater can help you find contractors that offer air sealing services in your area.

Sealing Leaks

House air leakage

Many air leaks and drafts are easy to find because they are easy to feel — like those around windows and doors. But holes hidden in attics, basements, and crawlspaces are usually bigger problems. Sealing these leaks with caulk, spray foam, or weather stripping will have a great impact on improving your comfort and reducing utility bills. Click on the house diagram to see common air leak locations that you should aim to seal.

Homeowners are often concerned about sealing their house too tightly; however, this is very unlikely in most older homes. A certain amount of fresh air is needed for good indoor air quality and there are specifications that set the minimum amount of fresh air needed for a house. If you are concerned about how tight your home is, hire a contractor, such as a Home Energy Rater,  who can use diagnostic tools to measure your home’s actual leakage. If your home is too tight, a fresh air ventilation system may be recommended.

After any home sealing project, have a heating and cooling technician check to make sure that your combustion appliances (gas- or oil-fired furnace, water heater, and dryer) are venting properly. For additional information on Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) issues related to homes, such as combustion safety, visit EPA’s Indoor Air Quality Web site.

Adding Insulation

Insulation keeps your home warm in the winter and cool in the summer. There are several common types of insulation — fiberglass (in both batt and blown forms), cellulose, rigid foam board, and spray foam. Reflective insulation (or radiant barrier) is another insulating product which can help save energy in hot, sunny climates.

When correctly installed with air sealing, each type of insulation can deliver comfort and lower energy bills during the hottest and coldest times of the year.

Insulation performance is measured by R-value — its ability to resist heat flow. Higher R-values mean more insulating power. Different R-values are recommended for walls, attics, basements and crawlspaces, depending on your area of the country. Insulation works best when air is not moving through or around it. So it is very important to seal air leaks before installing insulation to ensure that you get the best performance from the insulation.

  • See Recommended Levels of Insulation to determine what is most cost-effective for your home.
  • For more comprehensive information, check the Department of Energy’s online Insulation Guide.

To get the biggest savings, the easiest place to add insulation is usually in the attic. A quick way to see if you need more insulation is to look across your uncovered attic floor. If your insulation is level with or below the attic floor joists, you probably need to add more insulation. The recommended insulation level for most attics is R-38 (or about 12–15 inches, depending on the insulation type). In the coldest climates, insulating up to R-49 is recommended.

Sealing Ducts

In houses with forced-air heating and cooling systems, ducts are used to distribute conditioned air throughout the house. In a typical house, however, about 20 percent of the air that moves through the duct system is lost due to leaks and poorly sealed connections. The result is higher utility bills and difficulty keeping the house comfortable, no matter how the thermostat is set.

Because some ducts are concealed in walls and between floors, repairing them can be difficult. However, exposed ducts in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and garages can be repaired by sealing the leaks with duct sealant (also called duct mastic). In addition, insulating ducts that run through spaces that get hot in summer or cold in winter (like attics, garages, or crawlspaces) can save significant energy.

Additionally, if you are replacing your forced-air heating and cooling equipment, make sure your contractor installs the new system according to ENERGY STAR quality installation guidelines. A quality installation will include a thorough inspection of your duct system, including proper sealing and balancing of ductwork, to help ensure that your new system delivers the most comfort and efficiency.

Learn more about improving your ducts.

May 5, 2009

Refinancing Your Home

Filed under: Uncategorized — admin @ 3:48 pm

Refinance your mortgage now and you may capture the lowest interest rate of your lifetime. But unlike a couple of years ago, when it seemed all you needed was a pay stub (if that) and an eager mortgage broker, today’s process can be tedious. That’s because the demand for refinancing is high, standards are stricter, and the number of people processing mortgages is down. Here’s what you should know before you refinance.

What’s the outlook for rates?

Expect the 30-year fixed rate to hover near 5% for the balance of this year or, if the economy improves a tad, to creep up to 5.25%, says Keith Gumbinger, of financial publisher HSH Associates. HSH’s survey of lenders pegged the national average 30-year fixed rate at 5.01% in late April. The average 15-year fixed rate was 4.6% and the average 5/1 adjustable-rate mortgage (which has a rate that’s fixed for five years, then changes every year after) was 4.98%.

Given that the spread is so narrow between a 30-year fixed-rate loan and a 5/1 ARM, and that rates are at historically low levels, it makes no sense to take out an ARM now.

Rates will rise when inflation heats up, but that’s not an immediate risk. Kiplinger’s forecasts that the rate of inflation will stay steady for at least the next couple of months.

 Who qualifies for the best rates?

You’ll generally get the lowest rate on loans backed by Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac — together they back about two-thirds of all mortgage loans — if you’re taking out a conforming loan, and if you have a credit score of at least 720 and equity of 20% or more. Other factors that will help: if the property you’re refinancing is the single-family home you live in, if you don’t take out some of your equity in cash when you refinance, and if you don’t take out a home-equity loan or line of credit. Of course, you can reduce your rate by paying points at closing. A discount point is equivalent to 1% of your loan amount. Paying one point usually lowers your interest rate by 0.25 percentage point.

What documents will I need?

To get the most accurate estimate of the rate for which you’ll qualify, provide a prospective lender with your FICO score ($8 with the Equifax report when you order free credit reports from www.annualcreditreport.com) and an estimate of your home’s market value. You can get this from an Archwood Properties real estate.

When you apply to refinance your mortgage, you must provide pay stubs from a recent month, two months of bank and other financial statements, two years of W-2s and, if you’re self-employed, two years of tax returns showing self-sustaining income.

You can take additional measures to speed up the process, such as filling out an application and paying for an appraisal (about $350) ahead of time. That can be particularly helpful if you’re delaying your application in order to lock in a lower rate. There is a brief lag in applications to lenders between the time rates drop and the point that lenders become swamped with new customers. With all your paperwork in order, you can beat the rush.

If you have a home-equity loan or line of credit, your current lender will have to document its willingness to “resubordinate” to your new first mortgage — that is, stand behind the first lender for compensation if you default.

Where should I apply?

Call at least several lenders, including credit unions in addition to the local branch offices of national, regional and local banks. Some banks’ divisions that typically serve only a bank’s more affluent customers (say, with $100,000 or more in deposits) now offer good deals to non-depositors.

Also, check with mortgage brokers. They may prove especially helpful if your needs or qualifications aren’t straightforward. If your application is declined, good brokers, who represent multiple lenders, will appeal the decision or take the application to another lender that may approve it.

Should I lock in the offered rate?

Locking in a rate is a good idea for a couple of reasons. First, if the mortgage pushes the limits of what you can afford, you want ensure that rising rates won’t torpedo the deal. Second, the risk that rates will change before the deal closes is higher these days because loans are taking so long to process. Because mergers and layoffs have decimated many lenders’ staffs, refis are taking an average of 60 days to close. Locking in a rate will cost you, of course — lenders usually add a quarter of a percentage point to your interest rate for every 30 days you lock in a rate, up to 90 days. Be sure to get it in writing.

Of course, rates may decline further. To take advantage of that, ask about a “float down” option. For example, if rates drop a minimum of 0.25%, you can capture the lower rate before you close on the loan. Lenders will usually charge you a $200 to $300 nonrefundable fee for the option, but it can save you thousands of dollars over the life of the loan if rates go down.

How much equity must I have?

Fannie and Freddie require just 5% equity in your home (more for a second home, investment property or a mortgage with secondary financing). However, you must get private mortgage insurance (PMI protects the lender if you default) if you have less than 20% equity.

In markets where home prices are declining, the mortgage insurers won’t cover conventional loans with less than 10% equity or jumbo loans with less than 15%. But PMI can be expensive — the less equity you have, the more costly it is — and the added cost could disqualify you from refinancing.

During the boom years, homeowners avoided PMI by taking piggyback mortgages — for example, a first mortgage for 80% of the home’s price and a second mortgage for the balance. That tactic has almost disappeared.

The PMI problem is one reason the Federal Housing Administration, long a haven for the credit challenged, is doing land-office business these days. In late April , the average 30-year fixed rate on an FHA loan was 5.02%.

With FHA, you can refinance with only 2.25% equity. FHA provides its own mortgage insurance, for which you’ll pay both an upfront and a monthly premium. FHA itself doesn’t impose a credit-score threshold, but some FHA-approved lenders require a minimum credit score, from about 580 to 620.

You should know that Fannie and Freddie generally set the limit for mortgage-loan payments at 36% of your monthly pretax income, unless you can prove you can handle more.

I’m underwater on my mortgage and my payment is killing me. What can I do?

Small consolation, but you have a lot of company: One in five homeowners now owes more than their home is worth, according to First American Core Logic. The goal here isn’t necessarily to lock in the lowest interest rate, but simply to qualify to refinance with a mortgage you can afford. You may have two options, presuming that you have a job and meet other qualifications.

The first is the Home Affordable program. Announced in March by the Obama administration, this helps homeowners who owe more than their home is worth and need a more affordable payment. The Home Affordable refi will feature a market rate of interest that’s fixed for at least five years.

It’s no panacea. You’ll qualify only if Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac owns your current loan (to find out more, visit http://www.archwoodproperties.com/Blog/wp-admin/www.makinghomeaffordable.gov). The loan amount can’t exceed your home’s value by more than 5%. That limit disqualifies plenty of homeowners in distressed markets in California, Arizona, Nevada and Florida, where home values have plummeted. The program ends in June 2010.

The second is the Hope for Homeowners program. This may help if you’re at risk of default or already in foreclosure or bankruptcy. So far, these FHA-insured loans have had relatively few takers (recently only 51 of the loans had closed). That’s because the cost is high for both lenders and borrowers — although hopefully less onerous to both than the cost of foreclosure.

The Obama administration has proposed fixes to the program to make it more effective, including easing eligibility requirements for borrowers and reducing their costs. For more information about eligibility and where to apply, visit www.hud.gov/hopeforhomeowners.

What about jumbo loans?

As long as you can jump the hurdles to qualify and the loan you need falls within the limit for your metro area, conforming jumbos are readily available. In late April, the average 30-year fixed rate on a conforming jumbo was 6.36%, and the average 5/1 adjustable rate was 4.98%. The loan limit for conforming jumbos backed by Fannie, Freddie and the Federal Housing Administration is 125% of the median home price in your metro area — up to a maximum of $729,750 in high-cost areas.

Contact Us: info@archwoodproperties.com or 214.923.0261

                

May 4, 2009

Saving Water = Saving Energy

Filed under: Green Living — admin @ 8:42 pm

Many people know about the importance of saving energy, and many know about the importance of saving water. But few realize the direct connection between saving both.

The truth is vast amounts of energy are used to pump, treat, deliver and heat our nation’s water. Approximately 4 percent of the nation’s electricity consumption is used moving or treating water and wastewater. Considerable amounts of energy also go to heat water for bathing, shaving, cooking and cleaning our homes, dishes and clothes. In homes with electric water heaters, one-quarter of the households’ electricity is used to heat water. It also takes water to create energy. Vast amounts of water are used to cool the power plants that generate electricity. In fact, it takes 3,000 to 6,000 gallons of water to power a 60-watt incandescent bulb for 12 hours per day over the course of a year!

For more information: http://epa.gov/WaterSense/pubs/waterenergy.htm

May 1, 2009

Quick Tips On Buying A Foreclosed Home

Filed under: Dallas, real estate — admin @ 11:06 am

It’s become a lot easier to find foreclosed homes.
It once was that you had to visit the courthouse and comb through extensive legal files to locate homes that had been foreclosed on. Today, many banks are utilizing real estate agents to sell their foreclosed properties, and such properties can be found on realtytrac.com, foreclosurepoint.com or in special sections of the local MLS websites. However, the fact that a home has been foreclosed on may not necessarily be highlighted in the description. Some brokerages, such as Archwood Properties, specialize is identifying foreclosed properties and can provide you with the information that the above-mentioned websites don’t always include.

It’s best to buy a foreclosed property from a bank.
If you buy a foreclosed home at an auction before the bank repossesses it, you’ll have to pay in cash, and you usually cannot inspect the property. You may also later discover that there are liens against it. When a bank takes back a home, however, it will clear any outstanding liens. Plus, when you buy a bank-owned property, you can inspect it beforehand, and you can finance the purchase with a mortgage. Leave your suitcase full of cash at home.

Bring in a contractor before you buy.
Many foreclosed homes have been abandoned, some even vandalized, and they often require major repairs. One mistake a lot of people make is underestimating how much work it needs and the cost. To avoid getting stuck with a surprise bill, ask your Archwood Properties realtor to refer you to a knowledgeable contractor. Contractors can give you an estimate of how much the restoration will cost and how long it will take. Many will do so for free in hopes of winning your business.

Bid low!
Banks aren’t necessarily selling foreclosures at fire-sale prices; some are listed at market value, so be prepared to haggle. The bigger the inventory of foreclosed homes the bank has and the longer the property has sat, the greater your chances of nabbing a great deal. Your Archwood Properties agent can gather current market information to better assist you in figuring a strong bidding point. Set your initial offer about 20% below market price, or even more if your area has a lot of foreclosures.

Be prepared to wait.
While some lenders are getting back to bidders within 36 hours, others are dealing with an enormous backlog that can hold up their response for as long as three months. While you wait, someone can trump you with a higher offer. To boost your chances at scoring a home you love, have multiple properties in mind, and get your financing pre-approved before you bid. Even if the lender says it has another offer, follow up every week – these deals can often fall through.

Interested in exploring the foreclosure market? Contact us today:  info@archwoodproperties.com or call 214.505.9420.

« Newer Posts

Powered by WordPress